A Beginner’s Guide to Building a Cutting Board (with Personality)

A Beginner’s Guide to Building a Cutting Board (with Personality)

Have you ever done something that appeared to be a sensible act of cleaning that quickly turned into a big old whoopsie? Yeah, me too. Like, burning our old cracked cutting boards in a blaze of dumbassery because I thought, “Hey, they’re broken. Fire fixes everything!” Well, my wife didn’t quite share my enthusiasm for turning kitchen tools into ashes. So… I made her a new one. And in the process, I accidentally stumbled into a full-on meditative experience that reminded me why I love woodworking.

Here’s how mindfulness, patience, and a little time birthed my very first end-grain cutting board — and maybe a little personal growth too (but mostly just the board).

Step 1: Embrace the Burn (Then Stop Doing That)

Fire is not always the answer. Lesson learned. Moving on.

Step 2: Choose Your Woods Wisely (and Artistically)

I selected maple, cherry, and walnut hardwoods — not because I’m fancy, but because those were what I had and they look cool together. I used 13/16" lumber, cut it into 1" wide strips, each 15" long. You know, the kind of repetitive measuring and cutting that forces you to slow down or risk slicing a fingertip. Instant mindfulness.

Step 3: Design With Your Eyes and Vibes

Before you glue, you gotta play. I messed around with the pattern until it just felt right. No ruler, no fancy diagram, just pure chaotic indecisiveness. It’s like Tetris, but with expensive wood and more existential dread.

Step 4: Glue Up Like a Rookie (aka: "I Used What I Had and Hoped for the Best")

Look, I’ll be real with you— I used Titebond I, because that’s what was collecting dust on my shelf. Then I did what every responsible adult does after making a decision. I Googled it. Thankfully, it’s still a solid choice for a cutting board, just not the ideal one. No regrets, just notes for future me.

Technically, Titebond Original isn’t FDA-approved for indirect food contact—though it is non-toxic and water-cleanup friendly. Basically, it won’t poison you, but it’s not exactly the gold standard for cutting boards either.

Titebond III Ultimate, on the other hand, is FDA-approved for projects like this. It’s waterproof, food-safe (once cured), and generally the go-to glue for people who plan ahead... unlike me.

Also, yes—I used the clamps I had in my shop. And no, they weren’t ideal. These clamps would've applied better pressure across the board, but listen… the thing held together, I didn’t have a mental breakdown or set this cutting board on fire, and I didn’t need to go buy more clamps. That’s what I call a win.

Productive Tip: Wipe off your glue squeeze-out with a damp rag before it dries. I did, and sanding later was way easier. 

Step 5: Flattening… aka “The Patience Test”

The next morning, I ran the glued-up block of wood through my planer. Slowly. Like, old people at Walmart- slow. I used shims on the first pass to make sure one side was flat. Once it got going, it worked like a dream. A loud, messy, terrifying dream.

Step 6: Slice, Trim, and Breathe

I squared off the ends of the board, trimming the uneven bits. This is where your eye for detail comes into play. One wrong move and you’re the proud owner of an expensive doorstop.

Step 7: Jig It, Baby

I didn't want to have handle holes in this cutting board. I did want to add slick-looking finger grips, though, so I whipped up a quick router jig. I’d love to pretend I planned this, but most of this project was researched and designed as I went (clearly), and I definitely stared into the shop's abyss for 20 minutes before finding some scrapwood to slap one together. It worked. Mostly. Good enough for government work.

I skipped the juice groove. Why? Because patience only goes so far, and I didn’t feel like making another jig.

Step 8: Edge Roundin’ and Sandin’

Rounded the edges with a ¼" round-over bit, then began the slow descent into sanding madness:

  • 80, 120, 180, 220

  • Spritz water to raise the grain

  • Repeat 220

  • Sand to 320

  • Pop the grain again

  • Finish at 400

It’s a workout and a lesson in patience. Like meditating with loud tools.

Step 9: Let There Be Laser

Then came the artistic bit: I used my Ortur Laser Master 3 (10-watt, because I’m humble like that) to engrave a clean, minimalist Pacific Northwest-style design in the corner; plus our Stateline Woodshine logo on the back. Because yes, I’m a professional, and branding is everything, even on the bottom of a cutting board no one will see.

Step 10: Re-Sand and Oil the Heck Out of It

Burn marks? No problem. A light 400-grit sanding cleaned them up beautifully.

Then came the spa treatment:

And there it was. A beautiful end-grain board with no cracks, no burns, and no wife screaming in the background. We call that growth.

Final Thoughts (and First World Problems)

This cutting board looks rustic, and it turned out so pretty… I don’t even want to use it. It’s like building a custom truck and then crying when someone gets mud on the tires. But hey, it made my wife happy, taught me patience, and made me realize that woodworking can be a form of meditation if you let it. Just with more sawdust and fewer candles.

Mindful Takeaways (because apparently I’m a philosopher now):

  • Slow down. Plan ahead. The board (and your sanity) will thank you.

  • Mistakes are part of the process. Most of the time, you'll be the only one who sees them. Learn and move on.

  • Attention to detail isn’t optional; it’s everything.

  • Don’t light things on fire to save 15 minutes.

Follow, Stalk, and Admire Me Online:

Let me know if I missed anything, or if you just want to criticize my fun. What's your next project? Tell me (or show me) how you've turned your screw-ups into masterpieces. Just holler. I'm always down for ridiculous yet rewarding DIY adventures.

The Guy Who Burned the Cutting Board
Jordan

#woodworkinglife #cuttingboardDIY #mindfulmaker #statelinewoodshine #endgrainmagic #PNWcrafts #dontburnthekitchen

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